Bast fashion fibres from regen farming
Bast fibres, farmed regeneratively, will rise in importance as the fashion industry looks to diversify away from cotton.
Source 1: WGSN
The bast fibre group, which includes flax (linen), hemp, ramie and jute, support regenerative agricultural practices that can help the soil sequester carbon. Pure linen, being a biodegradable natural fibre, needs a fifth of the fertiliser required for cotton, less water to grow and draws carbon into the soil, making it a much lower-impact crop. Linen, as the best known bast fibre, is already growing in popularity in the fashion industry due to its natural performance and eco-friendly associations. It’s also cooling, moisture-wicking, absorbent, breathable and durable, with inherent antibacterial, moth- and stain- resistant properties. Along with linen, hemp is big news in denim circles, while jute is expected to make an impact in footwear and accessories.
Source 2: Fabricsight
Types of bast fibres
Flax: fibrous material collected from the stem of flax plants is used to produce linen fabric – a breathable, soft, versatile, and hypoallergenic fabric. Europe, and especially Belgium and France, is the primary production region for flax destined to become linen; about 85% comes from Europe.
Hemp: eco-friendly fabrics made with hemp fibers are durable, versatile, and weather resistant. The largest producer of hemp is China, which grows 20-30% of the world’s hemp crop. Other countries that produce fibre grade hemp include North Korea, Europe, Canada, and Russia.
Ramie: native to eastern Asia, ramie is a plant in the nettle family that is used to create strong, stiff fabrics that look similar to linen. However, the low elasticity and brittle nature of ramie fibres means that fabrics are improved when ramie is blended with other fibres such as wool. China is the primary producer of ramie – growing over 95% of the world’s ramie for fibre.
Dogbane: tall stalks of dogbane can be used to collect fine fibres with that are long enough to spin into soft, yet strong, yarn. Dogbane grows in various areas across North America and is an important fibre for some groups of indigenous people, who used it to make rope, nets, snares, clothing, and more.
Milkweed: milkweed produces strong, fine fibres that behave somewhat like a mix between cotton and linen. However, the fibres tend to be very short, which makes it difficult to spin into a smooth, even yarn.
Jute: fibres extracted from the ultra-long stalks of jute plants are typically strong, yet coarse. They are great for producing textiles requiring a lot of durability, where the feel of the fabric doesn’t matter – because jute fabric is not soft. India is the number one producer of jute.
Kenaf: a very fast-growing, yet low-maintenance plant, kenaf is grown in many different locations across the world. The bast fibre obtained from the kenaf stem is strong, weather-resistant, and long enough to be easily spun into yarn. Fabric made from kenaf has a similar appearance and feel to linen but is coarser and not quite as soft.
Sustainable farming practices
While bast fibres are eco-friendly due to being biodegradable and originating from natural sources, rather than being artificially created; they also support sustainable and regenerative farming practices.
Plants that produce bast fibres tend to require less irrigation and other inputs than cotton, the chief plant-based fiber used in clothing production today. Conserving water and limiting fertilizer and pesticide applications creates a more sustainable farming system that helps to preserve, rather than harm, our environment. In addition, bast fibres usually require less machinery and are generally less expensive and time intensive to produce.
However, these crops can take the benefit even further than just sustainably reducing harm on the environment – they support regenerative farming, which works to improve the environment rather than just maintain it. Plants used in bast fibre production are often great cover crops working in rotation with other crops, keeping the soil covered to minimize erosion and incorporating organic matter to improve soil fertility. A greater diversity of crops within a farming system not only improves soil quality, but minimizes plant diseases, further reducing the need for chemical applications.
